This bustling, no-nonsense counter brines chicken overnight in salty and syrupy sweet tea for exceptionally savory and gently sweetened meat. But the star is the crust, riveted with all kinds of crisp nooks and crannies that develop in the pressure fryer. The hearty fried chicken supper ($11.50), composed with hot biscuits and a side of salad, is the thing to get if you’re hungry.

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